A Walkabout with a Talented Tale
In September of 2018, Botwood NL hosted the Global Mural Arts Conference. This is no small feat for a town of its size. Botwood Mural Arts Society began in 2010 during the town’s Come Home Year and has grown from there. Please make the time to visit the link below.
Photos: L. Fudge
Before our walkabout, nine of us gathered for a lovely brunch at the Dockside Restaurant. Dockside Restaurant The exterior of the restaurant is rather nondescript, but the inside is unique and so very interesting. We went for the Sunday brunch and it was excellent. An added bonus is the featured art and the showing of so much history. Check their Facebook page as well as the link above. They are open all year but call 709 257 3179 for hours.
Photo Lionel Fudge
These artists were just finishing this mural and we stopped and talked with them. She was from Argentina and was thoroughly enjoying her time in Newfoundland.
Artist Craig Goudie Photo L. Fudge
Clash of Cultures….Craig Goudie
This was my sister’s favourite. I was torn between this and The Two R’s by Craig Goudie, an artist from Grand Falls-Windsor. The detail boggles my mind and it is such a powerful part of our history.
Artist Craig Goudie Photo L. Fudge
Artist Craig Goudie Photos L. Fudge
Artist Craig Goudie…painted on Botwood library
Artist Craig Goudie Photo L. Fudge
…….this is definitely my favourite! It’s ingenious how he painted the books as fishing stages (rooms) and used pencils for the shores (supports)…..and the paper boats! Seriously, you can’t get any better with creative thinking……and the colours!
Photos: L. Fudge
Our history.
Photos: L. Fudge
Fire hall Mural
Photos L. Fudge
Continuing our walkabout and seeing still more amazing murals.
Photos: L. Fudge
You really need to read everything and look closely at every detail.
Botwood, NL Murals
The railway through Botwood depicted in a mural and what a story it tells. A section of the old railway bed now provides a scenic walk.
Botwood has four interconnected hiking trails Killick Island 5 kms, Lighthouse Point, Old Railway Link, and King Ridge Lookout. They are not challenging and quite lovely. If you need information, please call 709 257 3022.
My niece, Adrienne recently sent me a quote by John Muir regarding hiking and how he didn’t particularly like the word ‘hike’, he prefers saunter (through the mountains)….Botwood and its murals need you to saunter through the town and fill your senses with imagery, history and pure wonder.
The miracle is not to walk on water, the miracle is to walk on the green earth in the present moment, to appreciate the peace and beauty that are available now. …. Thich Nhat Hamh
A Trek Through Gaultois
Gaultois is a tiny community on Long Island on Newfoundland’s South Coast. It is a short ferry ride from Hermitage across 6 km of ocean and takes approximately 20 mins. Your vehicle will be left in Hermitage, as there are no roads in Gaultois.
Map image courtesy of Newfoundland Labrador Transportation and Works
Leaving Hermitage with beautiful views along the way.
Fjords, beautiful vistas and no fog, a gift from September.
Hmmmmmmm………………….
Arriving in Gaultois.
Anyone need a cab?
Gaultois was once a thriving community. Fishery Products International decided to close the fish plant in 1990 because it had too many plants on the south coast. It is a testament to the tenacity and hard work of the people of Gaultois that approximately 100 people still live there. Most want to resettle but still haven’t reached a majority vote.
The ferry leaves and we begin our trek up to Gaultois.
Gaultois is home to three, possibly four (it depends on who you talk to :)) distinct areas, The Valley, The Room, The Point and The Bottom.
Trekking along.
We had a great lunch at The Gaultois Inn and then continued our walk.
Unfortunately we didn’t have time to do this trail to the abandoned community of Piccaire.
School Transportation.
I was surprised to learn that there are still 17 students, with two teachers in Gaultois. As we were leaving , some of the older students zoomed up on their dirt bikes or quads and took the 3:30 pm ferry to Hermitage. They planned to return on the 7 pm ferry. Many residents of Gaultios have cars and trucks that they leave in Hermitage.
I like seeing clothes drying on clotheslines, but these disturbed me. I imagined the hard work involved pushing the clothesline up hill and then the dust from the moving quads blowing on the other two.
This photo tells visually how I felt when I left Gaultois. Overcome with sadness.
I hesitated in writing this in the event that some of the current residents of the community read this post; but in doing a little research, I found that although the town is somewhat divided on resettlement, most are eager to leave and start anew. There are some plans in the works for rejuvenation, and if that is what the residents want, I wish them well.
Gaultois, plan a visit, stay at the inn, do a walkabout or two, talk to the locals and form your own thoughts and opinions.
“Don’t walk behind me, I may not lead.” ? author
Photos L. Fudge
Restoring My Soul In Harbour Breton
Harbour Breton on Newfoundland’s South Coast should be on everyone’s bucket list. It is the home of amazing fjords, cliffs and mountains, storytelling beaches and ocean, fields of Canada burnet (bottle brush), multi-coloured seaweed and amazing hiking trails.
Please click the link below for more information.
The hiking trail which starts in Deadman’s Cove and connects with One Mile Pond Is approximately 5 km (one way) and is almost surreal in its beauty.
The Dalai Lama was posed this question by F. Von Schonborn “Never before has there been so much affluence for such large segments of the population in the West. And yet more and more people appear to be asking: Does this whole thing-do our lives- have any kind of purpose?” A part of his response was “…………….if we are discontent, even the most beautiful things will rub us the wrong way. Then we are gripped by anger and hatred for ourselves and others. Then we no longer feel good in our own skin. We cannot enjoy a beautiful flower, the song of a bird, or the smile of a child. This shows how important is is for us to live in harmony with ourselves.” Hiking and nature keep me grounded and, finally, comfortable in my own skin.
I have never seen such different colours/shades of seaweed.
Primrose? along the trail.
After climbing Iron Skull Mountain the previous day, this was the perfect trail to rejuvenate us.
Chinese architecture:)
Around the pond.
There are walks on which I lose myself, walks which return me to myself again.
In Praise of Walking Thomas A. Clark
There are many other great hiking trails and scenic vistas in Harbour Breton and although we did see much of the town, we moved on. Gun Hill Hike and others are on my radar for next year.
Thanks to my husband, sister and brother in law for a most memorable road trip.
Photos L. Fudge
Iron Skull Mountain Trail, Belleoram
“I see a picture of Iron Skull, and it brings a tear to my eye,
For I know, she stands guard o’er the birthplace of this Newfie boy”.
Johnny Drake/The Dorymen
Iron Skull Mountain is the highest mountain in Fortune Bay and is 1129 feet/344 meters high. I would rate this trail as difficult and recommend the use of a hiking stick. Allow 4 to 5 hours (return) for the hike.
I also suggest that when you start the final rocky climb up, you leave some sort of marker to the wooded trail area. When we started down, we had a little difficulty connecting with the trail again. My husband climbed down through the trees walked across the mountain until he connected with the trail and then let us know his whereabouts. It was easy to see the marsh that we had walked over far below, but hard to distinguish the actual trail.
But before we begin…… a little tour of Belleoram which is on the south coast of Newfoundland in Fortune Bay.
While Belleoram is no longer the bustling center it once was, it is still a community with a million dollar view. It has a population of approximately 400 and I saw four (there may be more), convenience stores!
The mountains and hills surrounding Belleoram, together with the vibrant blue of the ocean, provide a breathtaking scene that is spellbinding.
…….and away we go.
The trail into the actual beginning of the trek up takes approximately 40 mins. and is overgrown but not without interest.
Movement is a medicine for creating change in a person’s physical, emotional, and mental states. Carol Welch
We begin the climb. My sister told me about this hike and we, along with my husband, left early in the morning. There have been many bear sightings in this area recently. Fortunately we didn’t see one, but saw tracks and other signs.
Headin’ Home
John Drake….The Dorymen
Many years have gone by since I left my Fortune Bay home,
Full of dreams and ambitions, as a young man I wanted to roam;
But now things are different, I’m older and wiser, I guess,
And I’d love to return to that homeland that I love the best.
My friends and relations, I miss them more every day,
And in dreams I go back to my childhood down in old Fortune Bay;
I see a picture of Iron Skull, and it brings a tear to my eye,
For I know, she stands guard o’er the birthplace of this Newfie boy.
And I leave Bishops Falls, head down that Bay D’Espoir Road,
There’s a lump in my throat, son, ’cause I know that I’m headin’ home;
And when I reach St Jacques, I know everything is alright,
I got two miles to go and I’ll be in Belleoram tonight.
That old Fishermen’s Lodge is now a modern day home,
The roads, they are paved, and them old fishing schooners are gone;
That old church looks the same as it did when I sang in the choir,
The Orange Lodge gave its music to the lounge on the government wharf.
The dories made way for the faster and modern speed boat,
As you walk around town, you’ll not see a sheep, cow, or goat;
The steamers don’t call here, they are a thing of the past,
Now, it’s phoned-home visits, my, things are changing so fast.
My memories may fail me, but I feel like a king when I say,
I’m a proud Newfoundlander from Belleoram, down in old Fortune Bay.
And I leave Bishops Falls, head down that Bay D’Espoir Road,
There’s a lump in my throat, son, ’cause I know that I’m headin’ home;
And when I reach St Jacques, I know everything is alright,
I got two miles to go and I’ll be in Belleoram tonight.
Just two miles to go and I’ll be in Belleoram tonight.
####…. John Henry Drake [1936-2006] of Belleoram, NL (Headin’ Home, SWC Productions) ….####
Johnny Drake, along with Thomas G (Tom) Rose [1940-?] of Bay Du Nord, NL, co-founded The Dorymen in 1969.
He has reached home.
“May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds.” Edward Abbey
Another great adventure with my husband and sister!
Photos by L. Fudge
A Stroll Through Change Islands
Change Islands is on the northeast coast of Newfoundland and Labrador and is comprised of three islands, two of which are occupied. For more information on Change Islands please visit this link.
This fence caught my eye, as did the street signs in the shape of a fish.
Beautiful old United Church. The doors were unlocked so I actually got to see the interior.
Unique buildings which all have a curved roof. This curved roof design was common on Change Islands but rarely found elsewhere in Newfoundland. The yellow house was a cottage built in the early 1900’s by Walter and Raymond Torraville.
I feel we are all islands – in a common sea. Anne Morrow Lindbergh
A patchwork roof….thrifty and eye pleasing.
Driving across the tickle (Newfoundland word for ‘narrow strait’) on the Spencer Bridge, this lovely pop of colour makes a welcoming statement.
Salt in the air in the middle of nowhere. (Pinterest)
This is not a walk where you would ever be bored.
While there I met some interesting people who have bought summer homes on Change Islands. They love this place and enjoy the many opportunities for painting and photography. One of the people I met is a brilliant artist Susan Abma Susan graciously showed us some of her paintings. Please click the link to view some of her work.
You can find me where the music meets the ocean.
Beautiful wildflowers along the way….Butter and Eggs.
Hooded ladies’ tresses
Hooded ladies’ – tresses
Hooded ladies’-tresses……..a first time ID for me.
Musk mallow
For all your shopping needs……….
I live in a very small house, but my windows look out on a very large world. Confucius
For the right understanding of a landscape, information must come to the intelligence from all the senses. Thomas A. Clark In Praise of Walking
I hope you have enjoyed your walk through Change Islands. For information on the ferry schedule from Farewell to Change Islands and Fogo, please call 1 888 638 5454.
Photos L & C Fudge
A truly happy person is one who can……..
…..enjoy the scenery while on a detour. (Anonymous)
We spent some time in Eastport in October 2017 and enjoyed many delicious meals, shows and activities. Finding ourselves with some time to spare between activities, we decided to hike the Sandy Cove Look-Out trail. It was an overcast dreary day and the hike was uphill but not very long.
The trail winds through trees and is fairly nondescript, but I always like to finish a trail once I have started, so we kept going.
We have to take personal responsibility for uplifting our lives. The Sacred Path of the Warrior Chogyam Trungpa
The trail was wet, dark and grey.
At the top, the Canadian flag flies precariously in the wind.
In summer, beautiful Sandy Cove beach is a favourite of mine.
My husband saw this beautiful Caribou Moss and took photos.
It was the bright spot of the hike and I am so glad we took the detour.
“But,in my simple ignorance, suppose
That self-same Power that brought me there
brought you.” The Rhodora Ralph Waldo Emerson
photos L & C Fudge
Magical Cape Spear
Hiking around the boardwalks and trails of Cape Spear is always beautiful and for me spiritual; hiking it with one of my grandchildren is pure magic.
“Walking gives freedom. When you walk you can determine your own tempo. You can choose your own course. You can think whatever you want.” Nina Kuscik
Normally, I would agree with this quote but in this case, my four year old grandson chose the tempo and the course, and my thinking was limited to ….stay away from the cliffs, do not lose sight of him, do not run, do not spoil his day with too many warnings……….
Wait for me!
On my previous visits to Cape Spear, I had never explored this!
Surely with this workout, he will sleep tonight!
I truly do not understand people who abuse our earth with excess garbage, it will only sustain us for so long. Awesome is everywhere, let’s preserve it.
Photos by L. Fudge
Cape Spear, Newfoundland …..add it to your bucket list!
“Walk as if you are kissing the earth with your feet. No one saves us but ourselves. No one can and no one may. We ourselves must walk the path.” Buddha
From Newfoundland to Chile…….
an awesome journey and a great hiking experience. Part I
Chile is the longest country in the world, 4000 km north to south and only 200 km east to west. It lies between the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Andes mountains to the east.
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinationRedirector?openMap=trueðylCobjId=701
My sister happened upon Foothills Hiking Chile through their Facebook page and wanted to do something different for her 75th birthday……..so off we went. Well it wasn’t quite that simple….a 4 1/2 drive across the island, a 3 1/2 hr flight to Toronto and then a 10 1/2 hr flight to Santiago.
My husband joined us and we flew to Santiago, took a bus to San Fernando and on day three, were picked up by Elizabeth and Jose who run Foothills Hiking out off Puente Negro. Foothills Hiking
This seven day/6 night hiking adventure is filled with great hikes, cultural experiences. visits to a winery, cooking class, horseback riding, star gazing; and a journey up a bumpy mountain road to Termas del Flaco where we hiked up the mountain to see the dinosaur tracks. Elizabeth and Jose make it all seem so easy. Laughter and comradery filled the days as we hiked and learned.
We hiked in the mornings as the afternoons were quite hot.
Chile Puente Negro Foothills Hiking
First hike with Foothills Hiking
Drying plums for prunes
” He who does not travel, who does not read, who does not listen to music, who does not find grace in himself, she who does not find grace in herself, dies slowly.” Pablo Neruda
Chile Puente Negro Foothills Hiking
Dogs run wild here but are quite friendly.
Lapwings
Jose and Elizabeth are to be applauded for starting recycling in Puente Negro. I believe that others have joined to help them with the program now and it is great to see.
Drying plums
Plums on the tree and plums laid on tarps to dry…prunes.
Walnuts
Eucalyptus
Seeing the walnuts on the trees was new for me and the beautiful eucalyptus trees are everywhere.
Pablo Neruda was a Chilean and a Nobel Prize winning poet…….”Every day you play with the light of the universe.”
Many thanks to Elizabeth and Jose of Foothills Hiking. Please visit their site through the link above and follow my blog for further posts on Chile.
